In the realm of horology, certain creations stand out, captivating enthusiasts with their distinctive character. The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic series exemplifies this, presenting an intriguing blend of Swiss mechanical prowess and bold Italian design. These timepieces, particularly the Champagne, Cinquanta, and Bauhaus models, offer a refreshing departure from conventional watch aesthetics, making a memorable impression on anyone who encounters them.
The genesis of Gagà Laboratorio lies in Ruben Tomella's vision, following his two-decade tenure at Gagà Milano. His ambition was to craft watches that would primarily enchant collectors through their design, a goal he pursued by collaborating with acclaimed Art Director Mo Coppoletta. Coppoletta's creative input is evident in the inaugural Labormatic collection, lending each watch an unmistakable identity. The series features three prominent variations: the opulent Champagne, characterized by its warm cream and gold accents; the serene Cinquanta, with its subtle mint green; and the stark Bauhaus, featuring a classic black dial punctuated by vibrant red details. Each model comes equipped with a color-matched rubber strap, offering both comfort and a cohesive look, though leather strap options are also available for a different tactile experience.
Despite their generous 42mm case diameter, 13.3mm thickness, and 51mm lug-to-lug dimension, the Labormatic watches are surprisingly comfortable on the wrist. This ergonomic design is a testament to Coppoletta's artistry, where the gracefully sculpted stainless steel case, especially the Champagne version with its gold-toned sides, integrates seamlessly with the wrist. The innovative time display further distinguishes these watches. Hours are shown through a scrolling digital aperture at 12 o'clock, complemented by a minute ring. While the Champagne and Bauhaus models feature a spade-shaped minute hand and applied radial markers, the Cinquanta employs a unique blur box with a red arrow that traverses a circular track to indicate minutes. A central rotating disc bearing the brand's logo serves as a subtle running indicator, in lieu of a conventional seconds hand.
Adding to the unconventional design is the placement of the crown at the 12 o'clock position, a nod to traditional pocket watches. This choice, while unusual, proves practical for setting the time and contributes to the watch's distinctive silhouette, ensuring it doesn't disrupt the flow of the uniquely shaped case. Powering these exquisite timepieces is the La Joux-Perret G100 automatic caliber, visible through a sapphire exhibition case back. This movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and boasts a substantial 68-hour power reserve. The customized rotor, adorned with the Gagà Laboratorio logo, along with the Art Deco-inspired typography on the case back, underscore the brand's commitment to distinctive detailing.
Wearing a Labormatic watch quickly dispels any initial apprehensions about its size. The thoughtful design, including the comfortable rubber straps and the curvature of the lugs, ensures a pleasant fit that belies its physical measurements. The watches feel remarkably slender on the wrist, an effect enhanced by the double-curved sapphire glass. Among the various models, personal preference often leans towards the more vibrant options, as the inherent extravagance of the design truly shines with a splash of color. The mint green Cinquanta, in particular, evokes a summery feel, though its versatility allows for year-round wear when paired appropriately. Each Labormatic model retails for CHF 4,000 (excluding VAT), positioning the choice among them as a matter of aesthetic preference rather than budgetary constraint.
Ultimately, the Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic series offers a refreshing and delightful experience for watch enthusiasts. It showcases the collaborative genius of Ruben Tomella and Mo Coppoletta, who have successfully forged a brand that champions Italian design ingenuity alongside precise Swiss watchmaking. In an industry often dominated by derivative styles and homages, these watches present a genuinely novel and spirited alternative, bringing a smile to the faces of those who appreciate truly characterful timepieces.